Taylor Canyon

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Copyright (c) 1999-2001 Kirk Woerner, StoneSeeker.com

Welcome to Taylor Canyon - Left Hand Crack Area



The Left Hand area is a local favorite for moderate climbing. It is just to the right of the Sun Deck area and starts with Tonys Tango. The best time for this area is summer since the corner is shaded in the afternoon. The routes either top out at the chains at the top of Left Hand Crack or those at the top of Question of Balance. The most moderate line to the chains for Left Hand Crack and other face climbs is Tonys Tango, a moderate crack. Note that the face climbs work with a 50 meter rope, but just barely so be careful and use a cordalette at the top if you have only 50 meters. Also, always tie a stopper knot in the end of the rope (you always do right?). Question Of Balance chains can be reached for top-roping by going around right, up the hill and climbing a short 5.7 bit to gain the ledge.

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Taylor Canyon - Left Hand Crack Area
Corrections / New Routes

(1) Tonys Tango (5.6) Trad - Starts a little left of what is shown. Follow the obvious crack up to the chains. At the top of the most vertical part of the crack is a ledge that's hard to see on the left side which is very helpful. Length: 100' Gear: .5-3 Cams

(2) Baby Face (5.9) Mixed - Right up the center of the face. One bolt only (about 25 feet off the deck) makes this a challenging lead. On lead you can go right above the first face and pull a small overhang that can take protection. An intersting variation stays left on the second face and staying off the diagonal ramp which brings the grade up to 5.10. Length: 100'

(3) Taylor Made (5.10-) Mixed - Climb the arette. Again, only one bolt makes this a scary lead. Staying left at the big flake 30 feet up is a challenge worth trying. Length: 100'

(4) Crescent Crack (5.11+) TopRope - Starts just to the right of the corner. Face climb (no slapping the corner!) up 20 feet to the ledge. Follow the left leaning crack up to the next face and traverse out right. Do tiny, balancy face moves to gain the ledge (stay on the face with big holds out right and left off) and then fnish up to the chains. A little contrived at top but a great problem. Length: 100' FA: Tom Pulaski - mid 70's

(5) Unknown (5.11+) TopRope - Almost exactly like 20 except the start is on the right side (just to the left of Left Hand Crack). This face is a boulder problem in the hard V4 range. Length: 100'

(6) Left Hand Crack (5.9) Trad - Follow the obvious crack system to where it kicks ack on you. Pulling this kickback is the crux but it's a single, well protected 5.9 move. The key is get your right foot in the divet in the crack, pull up and keep your hips in! Length: 100' Gear: assorted Cams and nuts, a #2 Camalot protects the crux perfectly

(7) Air Conditioner (5.9) Trad - This can be done as a one pitch by traversing right at the ledge at the top of Question of Balance (a moderate but nerve racking traverse), or can be two pitches to top out. Pitch: 1 Follow the chimney up and over an overhang to a ledge. Most people face the main wall. Continue up the corner for 10 feet to the ledge at the top of Question of Balance. Continue on up the crack to a belay station for the second pitch. Pitch: 2 Continue easier climbing all the way up and walk off to the left. Length: 60' Gear: Large Cams for the chimney

(8) Question of Balance (5.10+R) Trad - Aptly named, climb the crack in the face until hands peter out. Traverse left and then make one or two moves to gain the V shaped slot in the ledge above. Mantle onto this ledge to the chains. Rated R because of the swing potential on the final move. Length: 60' Gear: Cams and nuts in opposition

(9) Question of Balance Direct (5.11+) Trad - Same as Question of Balance but with a direct finish. The finish is tiny fingers and a dynamic move to gain the ledge directly above. Length: 60'

(10) Hand Crack (5.7) Trad - Fairly simple crack with the crux down low. Length: 60'