Welcome to Taylor Canyon - First Buttress Right
OverviewThe right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.
(1) Aphrodite (5.7) Trad - Climb starts in the obvious left facing corner/weakness. Follow the squeeze chimney up to top out. Length: 165'
(2) Aphrotittie (5.10dR) Mixed - Same start as Aphrodite but at ledge go out right and up the face. Length: 165'
(3) Cigarette (5.11b) Mixed - Up face to right of Aphrodite. Up the arette at the ledge. Length: 165'
(4) Sassafras (5.10a) Trad - Up face from the ledge on Dunns Dihedral. Very nice cracky face climbing continues to anchors. Length: 80'
(5) Dunns Dihedral (5.8) Trad - Two pitch climb. Pitch: 1 (5.6+) Up fairly easy rock to gain a ledge. Pitch: 2 (5.8) Climb face to a small ledge and then ease right to a crack. Follow this up to where it eases up and belay on a tree. Two rope rapel from the anchors at top of Sassafras. Length: 170
(6) Black Gash (5.10a) Trad - Starts left of the chimney. Length: 130 FA: Chuck Grossman, Phil Broscovak - early 80's
(7) Choss Chimney (5.9) Trad - Exactly what its name says. Chimney moves up to ledge. Length: 120 FA: Chuck Grossman, Phil Broscovak - early 80's
(8) Corkeys Rumpet (5.10c) Trad - Nothing known. Length: 120' FA: Phil Broscovak, John Rosholt - 1976
(9) Christine's Dream (5.12a) Trad - Hard line up and over the roof. Length: 120' FA: Phil Broscovak, 1977
(10) Singapore Sling (5.10b) Trad - Same start as Christines dream, but traverse right under the overhang and then follow cracks to the top. Length: 100' FA: Phil Broscovak, John Rosholt - 1976
(11) Descent Chimney (5.6) Trad - Standard descent for the above routes and a reasonable moderate lead. Length: 90'
(12) Outer Limits (5.10cX) Trad - Initially led during a rainstorm, the crux is the run-out climbing near the top. Length: 90' FA: Scott Gilbert, 1977
(13) Three Pin (5.9) Trad - Classic moderate on the right wall. Pitch: 1 (5.9) Scooch right after first 30 feet or so and belay. Length: 80' Pitch: 2 (5.8+) Continue up weakness. Descend to the right. Length: 170'
(14) Gymnastics (5.10a) Trad - Go up the obvious dihedral/off-width. Pulling the roof and fading right is called Gymnastics direct and is 5.10a. Climbing out right and around before the roof is Gymnastics and is 5.9+. Descent is off to the right at top. Length: 90'
(15) Cathys Corner (5.10a) Trad - Classic line up a left facing dihedral. Pull some dicey face moves to just below the roof. Continue up and over in the weakness. Descend off right.