Taylor Canyon (known by the locals as Harmels, for the ranch near the
First Buttress) is a favorite in and around Crested Butte. The
climbing is mostly traditional. Routes are usually under three
pitches, but there are a lot of them of that length as well as single
pitch. The rock is high quality granite in most places. There is a
Kyak/Raft/Climbing guide shop also right next to the the First
Buttress. A number of the climbs are runout and the grades are known
to be pretty stiff (some might say sand-bagged). Consider that Ottos
route on Independance Monument is a "5.8" and it has chopped steps,
while Left Hand Crack is a "5.8+" and I defy anyone to get such an
awkward move on the first try.
|Another rock in Taylor Canyon
How to get there
From Gunnison, go north on highway 135 for about 10 miles. At the
small town of Almont, turn right and head up toward Taylor resevoir.
After another ten miles or so, you will come to Harmels Ranch.
Immediatly after this will be a climbing/kyaking guiding outfit. The
First Buttress is obvious (very). Park on your left just after the
Kayak outfit. Note, you will cross the Taylor river once, if you pass
Harmels ranch and then cross the river again, you have gone too far...
|Map of Taylor Canyon